Bibi Graetz Colore Bianco

Toscana IGT, Tuscany

"The dream of Giglio"
The goal of Colore is always to most faithfully reflect the characteristics of the vintage with absolute precision, delivering different nuances and reflecting the main characteristics of the growing season.  The choice to add a white to this tier of wines was driven by our belief that we have a source of such unique and extremely high quality Ansonica as to be worthy of the name Colore.  2018 represents another jump in quality for our island wines.  It is our belief that Colore Bianco could soon become one of the greatest white wines of all of Italy.

Tasting Notes

"The thing that most impressed me from the first moments of fermentation - I was really impressed - were these notes of orange flowers that transformed into a blood orange note in the wines.  This made us think we should vinify this wine separately.  It's truly a unique and special wine with exceptional character."  -- Bibi Graetz

The weather on Giglio Island normally sees rather high temperatures and little to no rainfall, conditions that the indigenous Ansonica varietal tolerates well. However, the 2018 vintage on the Island of Giglio started off with a significant amount of rain in the winter and into the spring, which was immensely helpful to restore the resources our old vines are well adapted to accessing. The summer to follow continued to see intermittent rain showers but quickly returned to being characteristically hot and dry, allowing the vineyards to dry out while leaving them the abundant water reserves. The harvest was actually very easy, and we were able to leave the grapes to hang about a week longer than usual. The result were very balanced grapes with a classic quality.

The grapes for Colore Bianco were sourced from the Pietrabona Vineyard on the Island of Giglio, a terraced vineyard situated on the southwest part of the island, facing the sea at an altitude between 200 and 500 feet. The vines, which are up to 100 years old are planted on thousand-year-old terraces built out of the rocky, granitic soils of the island. The vineyards are planted in the local “Giglio style,” meant to protect the vines from the winds and harsh winters, which involves training low to the ground on a modified guyot system. In 2018 we harvested a small section of Pietrabona, a one-hectare vineyard of 80-year-old vines, a full two weeks later than we would normally have harvested and we discovered that the grapes had developed remarkably. Thanks to longer hang time we got grapes with higher ripeness leading to higher alcohol levels and a wider range of aromatics. All clusters were handpicked and transported in small baskets to the winery, located at the center of the island at Castello del Giglio. The grapes were destemmed and gently pressed, then fermented at low temperatures in stainless steel tanks for 6-7 days, 70% of the wine is moved to barriques that are equally divided between new, 1-year, and 2-years-old for another 10 days without temperature control. 30% of the wine completed the fermentation in stainless steel. 70% aged for 7 months in barriques in contact with lees (bâtonnage) and 30% in stainless steel.

100% Ansonica, the grapes for Colore Bianco were sourced from the Pietrabona Vineyard on the Island of Giglio, a terraced vineyard situated on the southwest part of the island, facing the sea at an altitude between 200 and 500 feet.  The vines which are up to 100 years old are planted on thousand-year-old terraces built out of the rocky, granitic soils of the island.  The vineyards are planted in the local "Giglio style," meant to protect the vines from the winds and harsh winters, which involves training low to the ground on a modified guyot system.

100% Ansonica

  • 2019-08-30

    96

    points

    Wine Advocate, August 2019

    "I saw the birth of this wine and am honored to report on its progression now. When I visited Bibi Graetz's tiny garage winery on the island of Giglio last year during harvest, I had the opportunity to taste this (it was hardly wine yet) from barrel. Ansonica grapes from the Pietrabuona vineyard, not too far from the estate's breathtaking Serrone that overlooks the Tyrrhenian Sea, were fermented apart, thanks to the obvious quality of the fruit. From the start, Bibi Graetz and his team knew that these three barrels from this single-vineyard site were different than the rest. That's why they decided to make a new wine, the 2018 Colore Bianco, and the idea is to continue production in the future. During our afternoon tasting this year, I tasted this wine from two bottles: one was opened just before I tasted it, and the second bottle had been open since about 10 a.m. that morning. Ironically, the morning bottle was a bit more shy, but both presented beautiful tones of peach, sweet almond paste, honeysuckle and pure salinity driven by the proximity of the sea from all points on tiny Giglio island. There is an Italian or Sicilian word, "zagara," for orange blossom, and I get a lot of that here. Island viticulture sees grapevines trellised with bamboo sticks, with four canes used in a sort of twisted guyot. Sometimes acidity can be a problem on Giglio, but the cooler 2018 vintage delivers good freshness, and Bibi harvested on the early side to achieve these results. This is one of Tuscany's most distinctive and precious (with only 900 bottles made) white wines."

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  • 2018-10-31

    93

    points

    Wine Spectator, October 2018

    "A plump yet vibrant style that embraces peach, melon, floral and subtle vanilla flavors. Creamy in texture, ending with uplifting elements of bitter grapefruit and iodine. Shows fine harmony and length. Bracing and minerally. Decant. Drink now through 2024. 65 cases made, 25 cases imported"

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